In Mexico lots of people don’t pay taxes on their mezcal, they don’t see brand labels, and it’s probably not certified by COMERCAM: Many Mexicans buy their mezcal in bulk directly from the distiller. Or they depend on the underground railroad, friends, family, producers, bring garafones, big plastic containers up to the size of gas cans, into the city from the country side and then it’s broken down into used glass bottles.
It’s so common and pervasive that it’s easy to forget. But being in Mexico City and drinking with friends you see all these unlabeled bottles in home bars and that’s what they’re full of. Whereas we may have cases of wine in our closets, there’s a set here who has cases of mezcal ready from that annual pick up/drop off.