If you’re feeling overwhelmed by an abundance of late summer fruit, palate expert Tess Rose has the perfect solution. Obviously it involves mezcal.
Late summer into fall is harvest season for most of us in the United States, with markets overflowing with all kinds of fresh juicy produce. I am so often reminded of fresh fruits and vegetables at their peak of ripeness when sipping on an excellent mezcal. There is something similar about the way the flavors burst and evolve on the palate with unique versatility in both, as if the mezcal captures and preserves the ripeness of the agave. That is the inspiration for this seasonal perfect pairing, which is deceptively simple, yet one of the most diversely flavorful combinations I’ve tried recently.
Made from wild agaves in Nombre De Dios, Durango, Mil Lumbres is a relatively new brand from Jose Guardado, who comes from a family with generations of mezcal making heritage in the region. The spring water, endemic wild agaves, and careful craftsmanship from a Durangense family make this a terroir-driven mezcal that prioritizes unique and concentrated flavors. The mezcal itself is clean and velvety, with a rich concentration of sweet citrus, tangy tamarind, and lactic umami that shows off what makes Durango mezcal special. (This and other expressions are about to launch officially in California; follow them on instagram to stay up to date on special events and available releases. And check out our tasting notes.)
It’s all about top quality produce for this pairing. I fell in love with the nectarine version, but have tried it with similar success with peaches, tomatoes, and even early grapes. Picking something bright and juicy with a touch of sweetness is important to balance out the creamy labneh and spicy chili crunch. Because the focus is on the topping, I like to keep the bread simple with a thin slice of sourdough–but any thinly sliced bread would work. Each bite has so many distinct textures and flavors that it is really exciting to eat and feels very satisfying even in small portions. I have enjoyed this for breakfast as well as a late night snack and everything in between; it’s a very versatile dish that is super quick and easy to prepare.
The fruity flavors bring out the floral and earthy elements of the mezcal, with the layers of flavor in each bite coaxing the spicy and juicy notes of the spirit to come to life. I tried adding fresh herbs like thai basil and thyme, but they were too intense; the mezcal brings an herbal and pepperiness to the dish and functions much like a sprinkling of fresh herbs. This is a pairing where the two elements truly enhance each other. The overall experience is definitely on the intense side, so this is for people who like bold flavors that still retain nuance. I would not recommend this for those who prefer mild flavors or pairings.
Spicy Nectarine Toast
Ingredients
- 1 piece thinly sliced bread, such as sourdough
- 2-3 tablespoon of Labneh (I like this Turkish brand)
- 1 ripe nectarine, or other juicy seasonal fruit
- Chili crisp or salsa matcha, to taste
- Flaky sea salt
Method
Toast the bread to golden brown. As the bread is toasted peel and cut your fruit into bite sized pieces. Spread the labneh evenly on the toast, then add the chili crisp making sure to distribute evenly. Top generously with the fruit, and finish with a pinch of flaky salt. Pair with Durango mezcal.
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