It’s no secret that I am an avid lover of the mezcals of Durango. In Durango, we find a unique intersection of natural and financial resources, a growing interest and investment in sustainable agriculture and business, and downright delicious agave varieties and distilling traditions. This list is by no means exhaustive, and there are many more mezcals from Durango that are interesting and worthwhile. More than anything, this is a short list of some of my favorite brands, most of which can be tracked down in the United States, and all of which are readily available if you travel to Durango.
Mil Lumbres
Mil Lumbres is produced in small batches in Nombre de Dios, Durango. The brand was launched in 2018 by Jose A. Guardado, a cousin of well-known producer Gilberto Roldan. The brand offers multiple wild agave expressions, including cenizo, tepemete, lamparillo, verde, and a sotol made from Dasilyrion Berlandieri. The ceramic bottles in cool matte colors juxtapose the traditional spirits with a contemporary design aspect. A family brand that prioritizes craft and quality while also embracing design–and the entire line up is phenomenal.
Vinatero
Vinatero is all about preserving the local traditions of mezcal producers from Nombre de Dios, Durango. Their bottlings consistently offer some of the most delicious spirits available, while holding mezcal up as liquid art and patrimony. Launched in 2014, the brand operates with a community distillery, where producers come and make their unique spirits from local agaves. This set up–without a central distillery manager–keeps the focus on community and the region as a whole, while also honoring the culture of the producers and letting individual craftsmanship shine.
Celebrante
One of the newer brands to launch, Celebrante is the passion project of the Mayagoitia family in Nombre de Dios. The first generation self-taught distiller spent countless hours with local masters while also pursuing academic degrees in environmental sustainability, with a focus on maintaining the health of natural environments for growing wild agaves. The project seeks to vitalize the local economy and uplift mezcal as one of the unique products of the region. Two expressions are currently available in the United States, though their onsite lineup is extensive and includes experimental infusions and distillations with local flora.
Cuero Viejo
This Nombre de Dios brand blends the local traditions with Oaxacan techniques. Cuero Viejo is a family-owned and operated brand that makes a wide range of mezcals that cater to local and international audiences. Their lineup includes spirits geared toward a range of different consumers: novices, purists, and those who love to explore experimental distillations. The vinata is part of a larger complex that features an upscale hotel and the first luxury spa in the world to offer wellness treatments that incorporate elements from the mezcal making process—think bagaso body scrub and invigorating mezcal massages.
Juhlik
More difficult to track down (but well worth it), is Juhlik, which translates to flor de agave, or agave blossom. This mezcal is made by Oscar Estrada in Mezquital, Durango. The production represents generations of tradition passed down through family and community. Local wild agaves are used to make a variety of bottlings, mostly based on cenizo. In addition, they occasionally offer special limited releases. The mezcals from this brand are absolutely stunning, and convey the unadulterated tradition of the Mezquital region, which is still intertwined with the local Indigenous cultures.
50 Mulas
Another gem from Nombre de Dios, 50 Mulas is helmed by Juan Carlos Vazquez Luna with help from his son. The brand has an extensive lineup that includes different agave varieties, sotol, and cremas de agave. He also makes mezcal-infused cheese and chocolates that pair well with the spirits. A longtime brand in the region, the spirits are as delicious as Carlos is knowledgeable about the local industry and hospitable to outsiders looking to learn more.
Sacro Imperio
A longtime favorite, Sacro Imperio, is a sister brand to Malpais, crafted at the namesake vinata in Nombre de Dios,under the expert care of the Simental family. A respected family with generations of tradition, their commitment to creating deeply flavorful spirits that honor the local agaves is evident in every sip. This is a fun and educational distillery to visit, but hose who want to taste the authentic mezcal from Nombre de Dios from afar can find it in bottlings from Sacro Imperio, which is available in the United States.
Leyendas Solar
The Leyendas brand sources a couple of mezcals from Durango, including their unique Solar project from producer Gerardo Ruelas in Nombre de Dios. Fascinatingly, every step of the process is powered by solar panels, representing a unique take on the future of sustainability in mezcal. Often mistaken for being aged because of the gold color of the bottle, this cenizo is a joven mezcal.
Ultramundo
Ultramundo is a relatively new brand, but has gained rapid popularity among the lucky agave lovers who have been able to taste it, and for good reason. Made from estate grown lamparillo from the family-owned property in the Zona de Silencio, Durango, the flavors and power of the spirit stand out as unique and particularly delicious. The first batches were distilled in Nombre de Dios by Gilberto Roldan, though production has since started at the new custom distillery at Rancho Pelayo, where the wild agaves are harvested. Available in the United States. (It is well worth the lofty price.)
Lamata
Launched in 2011 by Luis Loya, Lamata is an agave spirits project that seeks to honor producers from different regions. With his keen palate and ability to partner with great masters, Lamats’s offerings regularly sit at the intersection of top quality and unique limited expressions. With a few different bottlings from Durango, the limited runs represent a variety of regions and agaves exclusive to Durango. All in all, his line up showcases impressive diversity across production methods.
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